Wednesday, 30 September 2009

Farewell Hong Kong. Hello Singapore!

22/09/09

So here it is, our last day in Hong Kong. So let’s make the most of it. I’ve noticed that these posts are pretty lengthy so from now on I’ll try and keep them compact.

We hitched an MTR uptown and took a stroll around the sights and sounds there are to bear around Price Edward station.

A beautiful bird market, flower markets, Goldfish and the pet markets (that were home to the coolest looking terrapins and the cuddliest puppies you’ve ever seen).

One thing that stood out immensely today was in the Ladies’ market, where for the first instance in Hong Kong I heard someone raise their voice in anger. Two stall owners were naffed off at each other, I presume for poaching each others business and weren’t shy about letting the other know how they felt.
It was odd to see, because 99.999999999% of everyone here just gets along. As I said, never a cross word or a raised voice.

We did a bit more wandering and took refuge in some small mall for a breather from the heat. Indulged in some really awful cheesecake, which turns out was 0% sugar 0% eggs 0% anything. It really made the mooncakes we were refused seem a lot more appealing. NB. If you haven’t ever heard of mooncakes, I suggest you get it googled right now.

Then, bizarrely, we hit the Hong Kong science museum, which was lots of fun as it turns out. Most of the basic science is nothing breath-taking, but it’s a very hands on sort of place and you cant walk 10 feet without finding something to play with or press or something.

There was also some sort of kinetic energy machine, powered as far as I can tell, by volleyballs which throw themselves around this huge contraption and make different musical notes and so on.

Moving swiftly on to the evening time, we packed, got ourselves organised for the early, early start and with it being our last night in Hong Kong, we naturally opted for an Italian restaurant……………go figure.
Turns out there’s a reason good Italian food stays mostly in Europe as the place wasn’t too great, but it was decked out in the typical Italian restaurant garb that seems to have eluded most modern Italian restaurants these days.

A bottle of wine to toast to Hong Kong, bed, bath and sleep. Tomorrow is a long one….



23/09/09

So today is travel day. Leaving the big smoke of Hong Kong for the more southerly Singapore. Just off the equator this place is bound to be hot.

It’s an early start but we catch a bus to the station, jump on a train and all seems to be going reasonably well until Daddy dearest realises he’s left his Passport in the hotel room. Brilliant.

He legs it off the train to go back for it, leaving yours truly with both cases, no money and no idea what to do should he not make it back in time for the flight.
Mild cardiac arrest sets in. After a very tense 45-mins to an hour of me looking a bit shifty on the platform at the airport he arrives, passport in hand. I can finally exhale.

The flight it is fine, and it’s a nice enough day for it so the descent into Singapore looks rather spectacular. Blue, green and not too built up it’s a refreshing change from Hong Kong.

We arrive at our apartment, which is a veritable palace a stones throw from the main drag in Singapore. Good work Daddy-O. Naturally the first thing that hits you is the air-conditioning, but it’s a really nice place. I think we’ll do quite nicely here.

My dad knows this place reasonably well and wants to show me the hotel up the road so we go in and sit in the lobby for a drink. It’s a rather swanky hotel, and despite the suspect rendition of ‘You are the sunshine of my life’ from the dark piano-clad corner, I can tell it’s a much more laid back sort of place already.

Searching out the nearest eatery that takes our fancy we stuff our faces with Prime Rib and proceed to waddle down Orchard Rd. To get a picture of Orchard Rd, simply envisage all the shops you cant afford to buy things in, lined up one by one on both sides of a street and you’re about 80% there.

Again very chilled out but so, so HOT that you wonder how people aren’t stir crazy in the heat. Then you realise that they’re probably too hot to be bothered with fighting or anything of the sort.

A casual retreat back to the apartment and the refuge of air-con and im pretty sure I dreamed of meat, mainly due to the fact that my entire body was jam packed with it.

Tell Singapore we have arrived!

NJH

Thursday, 24 September 2009

More Hong Kong goodness

20/09/09

Today we had a fuuuuull day planned out, sort of.

We got up, grabbed breakfast, poached some wi-fi and then set out to meet a friend of mine who is currently studying in HK for the next year. I thought Ashley would be desperate to just be with people she’s familiar with but I was wrong. She’s settled into life here so, so well and though she’s always been the kind of girl to be adventurous, she’s really warmed to the place, the language, the way of life and the people. It was great seeing her and because she fits in here so well one feels even more like a tourist; flowery shirt, socks and sandals, the whole sha-bang.

We took the ferry across to Central then wandered in the general direction of the Peak Tram, which for those of you not in the know, is an oldy-worldy style tram that clambers its way up inclines the likes of which you can’t possibly imagine and brings you nicely to a great little spot to view the whole of Victoria Harbour.

As has been the sort of trend so far, while you might expect tranquil and basic, instead you are greeted with a shopping mall that would fit quite happily into any major city. Gift shops, restaurants, even a ticket booth for the Disneyland on Lantau. It’s a little disappointing to see how westernised it has become, its an odd sort of mix, the lunch menu’s show that (Vietnamese spring rolls with German sausage Bolognese sauce on a baked potato) but the view more than makes up for it.

Spread out at your feet is seven and a half million people all bustling, all hectic but all working so efficiently and with minimal trouble that you can’t help but stand and stare (and squint) across it all and not find the words to describe it. I shan’t try, ill shove a picture on instead.



I dont know how he managed it, but somehow my dad only managed to capture the green colours and nothing else.....go figure



People have carved their names into the bamboo to mark that they’d been here and witnessed this wonderful vista. As long as you’ve got your back to the big glass monstrosity behind you, the place almost seems peaceful.

Back down on earth, an open top bus ride, a ferry ride and a short walk later we said goodbyes to Ashley (it’ll be about a year until I see her again) and then were in desperate need of cooling down. Add one swimming pool and everyone’s a winner.

We lazed a little then took the bus to the other side of the island, a village called Aberdeen which couldn’t be more different to its Scottish name-sake. After some misdirection on our part and the help of a young couple we found our way to the world famous Jumbo! Floating restaurant. You have to take a little tugboat out across the water to get to it. Fun!
I’ve had a picture of me and Dad outside it kicking around already somewhere. Bingo.



We settled in the huge ballroom style room at the top of the boat and gorged ourselves with chicken, sweet’n’sour pork, roast duck and king prawns. When in Rome……

I vaguely remember waddling back to the tug, floating across the water to land and stumbling into a taxi to the hotel but I’m afraid my mind was so jam packed with 4 types of animal that I might be a little hazy. Going to need to sleep this one off.

21/09/09

Ahoy Lantau Island, prepare to be boarded!!

After a rather long MTR train ride uptown and across the water to Tung Cheung we hopped on a bus to take us to a little mountain town named Ngong Ping which is home to two rather famous sites. Firstly the Po Lin Monastery which is beautiful, serene and very cool surprising. The idols and temple in the centre of it are not only a pleasure to look at, but because of the craftsmanship to them you feel privileged to look at them. Add to that a head full of incense which introduces itself very abruptly as soon as you walk into the ground and you could almost be convinced to live there with the monks.

The other famous resident of Ngong Ping is the 110ft Bronze Buddha of Tian Tan, which sits atop 268 steps (I can assure you there are, I counted both going up and coming down). It was built to represent the coming together of man and nature and I think I liked him most about my stay in HK so far. Despite the fact he is so big and should stick out like a sore thumb on the mountain top, there is something about the feeling up there that makes it seem like it would be bare without him.

The village itself is against quite westernised, even home to a Starbucks as well, which I can happily say I boycotted, opting instead for the Vietnamese takeaway style restaurant. Pretty simple food really, chicken and noodles, but the broth was delicious and the added touch of a thousand year egg makes it a little more special.

The upside to the modern village was that the feature called 'Walking with Buddha', while Disney-like in its setup, gave you a little deeper understanding to the religion and genuinely made me feel happier about the world. The fact that we left through the gift shop is something of a faux-pas on their part, but its still nice.

Rather than engaging in the lengthy bus journey back we decided to make it worthwhile and took a different bus to the other part of the island. A tiny little village called Tai O.

Im not sure if it was because I wasn't expecting it, or perhaps because I was uncomfortable being there, but it felt like walking around and taking photos was disrespectful to those who lived there. It's a pretty run down area and has some of the first settlers original houses there. You've probably seen them, they call them the 'Stilt Houses' and while they're interesting to see, what you dont expect is for people to still be living in them. For me it would be like someone walking around Hendon or Mossside in Manc and pointing, saying 'oh look at them houses, arent they odd?', taking a photo then walking off. It just didn't feel right.
I was glad I'd seen it but there's sight-seeing and there's intrusiveness.

Anyway, it's a long way back to Tung Cheung but I quite enjoyed being bumped along the roads all the way around the island back to the station to catch the train back. It was nice seeing a bit of greenery, and there is plenty of greenery to see on Lantau. Its stunning.

Now, the past few times we've been up Temple St we've been harassed by a guy promoting the curry house he works for. We remembered him instantly and thought we'd give it a chance, so we went back round that evening, found him, he walked us right to the restaurant, right to the table and gave us two free beers. So far looking good. We ordered a few currys and the usual accompanyments and it was, as he described it, 'Satisfaction Garanted'. Great food at barely any cost. We may even go back tomorrow!

NJH

Saturday, 19 September 2009

you can squeeze a lot into 3 days...

17/09/09

Leg 2. Amsterdam to Hong Kong leg went even more swimmingly, perhaps due to the fact that a cheeky smile and an honest face got yours truly upgraded to Business class. Slick.

Veal Fricassee, more courses than you can shake a stick at, practically vertical seats so I could get a few hours shut eye and the 85 on demand movies on my own screen. OH. YES.

Naturally I took a peek at Watchmen, Star Trek XI and indulged my inner child in a bit of Coraline. Fantastic stuff.

We arrived on time, bags got through fine (thank god) and took the MTR from the airport into Kowloon…. It’s a pretty bad-ass train ride. The trains are nicer than first class Easy-Jet I swear.

My god this place is HUGE! Skyscrapers that are actually just blocks of flats as well as every type of shop, boutique, restaurant and museum you can imagine. We rocked past Tiffanys, Hermes, Cartier and The Peninsula with its British Racing Green Rolls-Royces. My mam would love this place. The Langham Hotel Hong Kong which is our base is a cavern of warm, honey coloured marble, gold and people so desperate to help (either out of good nature or tips) that you worry they might actually break their face with smiling too much.

Im going to hit the shower then go out exploring. Ill get some snaps of the hotel and room shortly.

17/09/09 - part two

So me and dad had a wander around Kowloon, grabbed a quick beer and took in the evening Hong Kong harbour light-show. Pretty impressive stuff considering it happens EVERY NIGHT. There isn’t a single direction you can look without being blow away by an amazing panorama. It’s epic.

Nathan Rd is fully of busy, full of people and full of shopping opportunities, and it’s plenty hot outside, around 33 degrees or so. Absolutely sweat-tastic. Then more wandering around with the goal of finding Temple St market and upon its discovery find places all over the shop, selling really great smelling food. They call this place the ‘Fragrant Harbour’ and so far it’s living up to its name in a great way.

Day one complete. Bring on the next.

18/09/09

Rise and shine, it’s your early morning Hong Kong call.

A stroll round the corner to ‘The Toast Box’ for eggs and French toast ‘cantonese style’, which basically means with pepper and soy sauce. Pretty damn good, try it.Then my first journey across to the island on the Star Island Ferry. This thing is amazing, 2 dollars a trip and a view of both sides of the harbour everytime. Another scorcher hitting 33 degree for the second day, and if the weatherman is to be believed it’s going to be 33 for another few days. Woof.

Hong Kong island is vast. 7 and a half million people live here and you can definitely tell. Swarms of people, cabs (in the red and white for HK & Kowloon), buses and my favourite off all: the Ding-ding. For 2 dollars a trip you can ride this oldy-worldy tram around the city until your heart’s content. I saw about half of the city this way, from high-rises to corner shops all the way to Causeway Bay and back to Central. Then we took a walking tour around the city. The western market; dried fish-stuffs markets; the herbalists and apothecaries; Man Mo temple; the antique district; the 800 metre escalator. There is so much here to take in, if it weren’t for my camera I think my head would explode.

We took in the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen museum (I’ll admit I didn’t have a clue who he was before we set off, but he was a pretty bad-ass revolutionary) and then went in search of food, which presented itself in the form of a noodle and won-ton bar. We both had the house special, a few cups of tea and the bill came to a grand total of $70-something dollars, which equates to little over a fiver for lunch for the two of us. Bonus. Back to the room for a quick shower and then back out wandering.

After a good bit strolling around we came across Knutsford Steps, which okay isn’t the most traditionally Chinese place you’ve ever seen, but there are plenty of locals kicking around and a zillion different types of food at your disposal. We naturally opted for a Steak the size of our faces and it was raaaaaather good. A few beers and then a casual meander around Temple St again. I picked up a little something for the lady from this guy in the market then it was back to the hotel. We haven’t quite got used to the time zone yet, but 1 o’clock local time is a respectable time to be heading in I think. Especially after a day of losing half your bodies water supply in the heat.

19/09/09

Today we started out a little more Western, as it is possible to be, making a bee-line for the nearest Starbucks (there are dozens and dozens of them here). Then we queued up for the Junk ride, affectionately named the ‘Duk Ling’. A traditional fishing boat that is over a hundred years old; red sails, deep brown varnish, ropes, wooden deck; the whole nine-yards.

We sailed around the harbour for an hour or so, taking it all in from every possible angle. The steam that comes off the water in the harbour is intense. You can’t see the boats at the opposite end through the haze. I thought I might be able to see the Buddha on Lantau Island but no such luck (I’m making sure I get up there to see it at some point). Dropped off at Central on the island we set off in search of the 260 bus to take us to Stanley Village on the south side. As has been the running theme for this trip we seemed to catch it at the perfect time, getting straight on and setting off before we had even got upstairs and sat down.

Stanley Market is labyrinthine in its layout, with stalls so fancy they might as well be shops in a mall of some sort. I was quite surprised that the place was so Westernised, the perfect example of which being the fact that the temple close to the waterfront was surrounded by a McDonalds on one side and a Starbucks on the other, not to mention the four floors of open air shopping mall behind it. Bizarre.

All was not lost, however, as we persevered and found a small Dim Sum restaurant hidden out of the way and had a great meal. The highlight of which was the pork and salted fish dumplings. I’d have another basket of them in a snap given the chance.

Another walk around the market then it was back on the express bus to Central. The journey was epic. I’m pretty sure the driver was either on speed or had a death-wish, as we came close to hitting most of the obstacles along the side of the road, as well as oncoming traffic. I swear he was aiming for the pedestrians too.

We made a pretty snappy return back to Kowloon, being pretty hot and worn out, and after a shower and a change of clothes we were back out heading toward some restaurants we’d seen the night before. Even now I don’t remember the name of it, but we pulled up a chair, ordered a few beers and eventually some food ( a rather spicy number that brought tears to my eyes and some duck spring rolls) and watched the Sunderland v Burnley match that was being broadcast at the time. Sadly the black cats didn’t win but it was a good night, Happy hour made it even sweeter, then it was back to the hotel for a reasonably early night. We’re taking on the peak tomorrow and need as much energy as we can get our hands on.

NJH

Wednesday, 16 September 2009

Here we go...

So I'm embarking upon a trip to the far east with mon pere. Hitting Hong Kong first, then on to Singapore to indulge in the Grand Prix.


The first leg of the journey has been a joy so far. Plane took off 10 minutes early and arrived 20 minutes early. Bonus.

Amsterdam airport is deserted for some reason..........all except the business lounge, which has more laptops clicking away in it that all the UK branches of PC world combined.

Just the 12 hour jaunt to Hong Kong left to complete before I'm about ready to die of a mixture of heat exhaustion, dehydration and gorging myself on massive portions of whatever is being cooked up on the streets of HK. ....It's a hard life isn't it?

I've promised to keep this as a sort of journal of my trip, photos et al, so keep a weather eye to the horizon for any innane ramblings after 12 hours in economy.

But first, bring on the complimentary snacks of the KLM lounge (Thanks dad)

NJH